6 Months in Taiwan: Reflections on World-Changing Politics, Different Ways of Living, and a Long Language Journey

Published 08/14/2024 in Scholar Travel Stipend

Written by Karen Li | 08/14/2024

During the spring and summer of 2023, many people asked me what my upcoming plans were, which was to be expected as I was graduating from college. However, when I responded with the unexpected, that I was leaving America to study abroad in Taiwan for several months, they would react with a slightly alarmed, slightly amused look. Their surprise was twofold.

At first, they would express excitement for me, congratulating me on this adventure and untraditional post-graduation path. Then, without missing a beat, they would follow up with something along the lines of, “Aren’t you afraid of what might happen?” They were referring, of course, to the threat that China might invade Taiwan in the coming months.

Throughout my time in Taiwan, it became clear to me that this question everyone worried about was indeed one that dominated conversations about and within Taiwan, especially since this year was a presidential election year for the island. And although I grew up under the impression that Taiwan is a part of China, my views have become much more nuanced after living there for six months. It also became clear to me that Taiwan is much more than the controversies surrounding its relationship with China. It is a place with a fascinating history, a mixture of rich cultures that its people take pride in, and an economy that is rapidly developing on the world stage. Studying abroad in Taiwan aligned directly with the mission statements of the Milken Institute and Milken Family Foundation, from “tackling some of our most critical global issues through the lens of what’s pressing now and what’s coming next,” to discovering and advancing “inventive, effective ways of helping people help themselves and those around them lead productive and satisfying lives” through education. My time within and outside of the International Chinese Language Program (ICLP) at National Taiwan University was unforgettable and dynamic as I learned about complex political situations on the island that had global consequences, different ways people could live happily and healthily, and how to continue progressing in my lifelong language journey.

Politics: The World’s Eyes on Taiwan

(As a caveat, my thoughts on Taiwanese politics are merely observations and reflections from my brief time there. Since I am neither a Taiwanese resident nor someone of Taiwanese descent, my personal opinions about Taiwanese politics should not hold authority, so I do not wish to share them. I am an outsider looking in, as most of us in the world are. Authority over politics in Taiwan should always be reserved for those living there and those who will experience the consequences of any decisions impacting the region.)

On January 13, 2024, all eyes were on Taiwan as the polls opened and over 19.5 million Taiwanese people voted to elect a new president and legislature. Taiwan was the epitome of being “the lens of what’s pressing now and what’s coming next,” directly aligning with the Milken Institute’s mission statement. In order to understand this spotlight on Taiwan, it is important to first discuss Taiwan’s history. For the purposes of being concise in this essay, here is a link to a historical timeline from Taiwan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs: www.taiwan.gov.tw/content_3.php.  

This timeline is by no means an all-encompassing recap of the long and complicated history of Taiwan, but it does paint a picture of the changes in the political landscape and population makeup over the last several hundred years. From the legacies of Taiwan’s aboriginal peoples, to influences from Japanese colonial rule, to the takeover from the Republic of China (ROC) government (separate from the Chinese Communist Party), to increasing relations with the West, to rapid democratization, Taiwan is a potluck of peoples and politics that have developed in a unique manner. The region has its own Constitution, military, democratically elected representatives, currency and customs, making it functionally independent.

As many people may already be aware, tensions between Taiwan and China have been increasing in the past several years. Beijing has long laid claim to Taiwan, but under former President Tsai Ing-wen and the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), ties have especially soured due to her unwavering defense of the island’s sovereign status (Ng). During her presidential terms, China suspended formal communications with Taiwan because of Taiwan’s refusal to accept the One China principle, which is “the belief that Taiwan is an inalienable part of China and will be unified with it one day” (Ng). China has also increased military drills near Taiwan, eroding the informal boundary in the Taiwan Strait between the mainland and the island [picture below]. President Xi has stated that China would “continue to press for a ‘peaceful reunification’ but reserved the right to use force if Beijing deemed it necessary” (How Taiwan’s Election Fits Into the Island’s Past, and Its Future). With constant threats from China, people in Taiwan have had various opinions on how to deal with cross-strait relations. The main debate has become a question of whether Taiwan should work with China or continue to strive for independence and political parties have been split on this issue. To many in Taiwan and around the world, this year’s election was a question of peace and war. 

If war broke out in Taiwan, it would devastate the global economy since Taiwan is a critical hub for international trade and the island is one of the largest manufacturers of semiconductors, which power most of the electronic devices we use every day. Furthermore, if Beijing gained control of Taiwan, the US, Australia, and Japan would lose their naval presence in the region.

During my time there, I witnessed how Taiwan-China cross strait relations divided political opinions throughout the population and saw this critical global issue unfold in real-time. I heard campaign trucks driving around announcing candidate names, saw giant billboards headlining candidate slogans, and became involved in conversations about political stances. Some of my teachers at ICLP expressed their worries that voting for Lai Ching-te, the candidate for the DPP and the Vice President under President Tsai Ing-wen, would lead to war with Beijing, while simultaneously expressing dislike for the Kuomintang’s (Taiwan’s Nationalist Party) candidate, Hou Yu-Ih, who vowed to work with China if elected, as well as dissatisfaction with the third candidate, Ko Wen-je, the leader and founder of Taiwan’s third party, TPP (Taiwan People’s Party). When I brought up the stance that President Biden took, stating the US would intervene if Beijing invaded Taiwan, the people I spoke to countered with the pragmatic perspective that Taiwan could not rely on America because ultimately America will work in its own self-interest and that self-interest could change.

Other people I spoke to did not care about relations with China. They wanted Taiwan to focus more on domestic issues. Whatever the election results were, all they wanted was to put food on the table and live a peaceful, happy life. They were tired of this overseas debate because ultimately, they were concerned about their everyday lives, not about politics that were beyond their reach. It was interesting to see how people around the world were focused on Taiwan due to global relations and fears of mounting tensions, but many in Taiwan simply wanted to continue living better lives.

At ICLP, people were reluctant to outright discuss political opinions, perhaps to preserve a sense of professionalism, but it was clear that throughout the island, everyone was gearing up to vote. Rallies popped up throughout the island and my friends and I decided to get closer to the action by attending the DPP’s rally in New Taipei City two nights before the election [picture below]. It was a magnificent sight to see, thousands of people crowded in a stadium, cheering and waving flags in support of the candidates, eager to express their democratic right to vote and their hope for the future of Taiwan. All I could think about was how in America, there is a stereotype that Asian voters are unimportant or quiet, but one look at this crowd in Taiwan would immediately dispel that myth. I stood and watched as Taiwan geared up to make history. 

Since votes must be cast in person at designated voting stations on the day of the election, no exceptions, many people flew back from overseas to vote, and many people working in cities returned to their hometowns all around the island that Saturday to cast their votes. Ballots were counted by hand and cameras recorded ballot counting. Election day was quiet throughout the city as people cast their votes, waiting to see the results and my roommates and I kept our eyes glued on the TV as votes came in and announcers commented on results in different cities.

Ultimately, Lai Ching-te won the presidential election, which was a blow to Beijing, but only with 40% of the vote. The people spoke their minds, but it is clear that the DPP’s power is waning and Taiwanese people’s opinions may shift in the next few years. There was no invasion from China and people continued their daily routines, but this Taiwan-China issue is by no means resolved. As of now, things are peaceful in the Taiwan Strait. We can only continue to wait and see what may happen in the future and use this experience as a blueprint for tackling some of the world’s most critical global issues, as is one of the focuses of the mission of the Milken Institute. 

Culture: A Different Way of Life

While in Taiwan, I also witnessed a different, better way of living, giving me new perspectives, which aligned with the Milken Family Foundation’s mission statement in finding ways to “lead productive and satisfying lives.” Taiwan has a deep culture of people’s willingness to help each other. When my friend and I got lost on the bus while traveling to a different city, a kind woman helped guide us the right way and even gave us rice balls she had just bought when she found out we had not yet eaten lunch. When my friends and I were traveling on a train between cities, an old man struck up a conversation with us and offered us a unique fruit we had never tried before (we searched it up afterwards and think it may have been canistel) as well as some potatoes, just because he wanted to. When my housemate accidentally dropped his wallet on the way home from classes, it was returned to him the same day because a stranger had dropped it off at the university. When I thought I lost my glasses, my teachers recommended I call the train stations to ask if they had seen them, because staff members keep a strict log of items that are left behind on trains, and oftentimes items are returned to their rightful owners if they ask. People were also always friendly to foreigners. They stopped to talk to us, wanted to know our backgrounds, and gave us recommendations for where to go. 

As a native New Yorker, I have found this kind of sincerity and kindness rare. Growing up in America, I found that people were not usually this kind and considerate to strangers, especially not to foreigners. When I spoke to my teachers about this kindness, they told me it’s very common for people in Taiwan to go out of their way to help each other because it’s a societal expectation and common practice. They also told me that due to national health insurance, doctor’s appointments and procedures are not expensive. On this island, people help each other and that’s how they survive -- together and in community with each other.

I also discovered a different way of looking at life. In America, status is always tied to income and job title. But that is not necessarily the case for some in Taiwan. A 20-something year-old Taiwanese young adult that I met through one of my housemates told me that although he had taken law classes and taught himself how to code, his dream in the future was to open a bookstore. He wanted to live a peaceful, more meaningful life. He also told me that many students in Taiwan strive for government jobs which are very prestigious because they are very well respected and have great benefits. All of this is the opposite of how America functions, and, I would argue, better than American society. Queerness and LGBTQ+ identities are also more accepted in Taiwan than most other Asian countries. In fact, it was the first region in Asia to pass a law legalizing same-sex marriage. I have observed gay couples holding hands in public in Taiwan, which is very much stigmatized in Asian societies, and I even watched a public drag show one night. Having studied abroad in Beijing for one summer, I can confidently say that one would never find those scenes on the mainland.

Furthermore, in recent years, the government has also been more open and willing to preserve customs from Indigenous peoples of Taiwan. In 2016, former President Tsai Ing-wen officially apologized on behalf of the government for the pain and mistreatment of Indigenous peoples over the past several centuries, and in 2017, the Indigenous Languages Development Act was enacted to preserve and promote the native tongues of Taiwan’s officially recognized Indigenous tribes ((Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Republic of China (Taiwan)). During my time there, I was able to visit regions in Taiwan that preserve Indigenous foods and ways of life, and, in the process, learned about Taiwan outside of current geopolitics. In many places, people live more slowly, focusing on preservation and enjoyment of life. They enjoy the incredible natural features in Taiwan, such as the natural hot springs, and take care of their communities to preserve their way of life. Capitalism-centered America certainly has a lot to learn from Taiwan about how to live better.

Taiwan has been influenced by Japan, China, America, and so many other countries, arguably incorporating some of the best aspects of all of these cultures and resulting in a uniqueness that distinguishes the region from any other place on the planet. Living there for six months taught me a gentler, friendlier, better way to live.

My Personal Mandarin Journey in Taiwan

            Education, which is a main aspect of the Milken Family Foundation’s mission statement, was also a main factor during my time in Taiwan. I enrolled in classes at the International Chinese Language Program (ICLP) which is one of the most renowned Chinese language programs in the world and since I did not need to worry about school credit, I learned Mandarin for the sake of learning it. I did not worry too much about grades and instead focused on the material. The classes were demanding, but the teachers were incredible and the class material was both meaningful and interesting. From classical Chinese to Taiwanese history to economics in Taiwan to current events in the world, my classes touched on a wide breadth of topics and throughout the process, my language skills exponentially improved. I had been learning Mandarin sporadically since I was a child, with my parents enrolling me in Saturday school and my own choice to take Mandarin classes in college, but I had never been immersed in the language for such a long period of time. By the time I left ICLP, I was able to talk about complex topics such as racism, wealth inequality, and economic development in Mandarin. I also wrote an article in Chinese about Taiwan's semiconductor industry and its impact on Taiwan-US political relations which was published in ICLP’s newsletter: http://iclpnews.ntu.edu.tw/journal/info/81?category=55&article=921.

In my classes, I not only learned the language of Mandarin but also different worldviews and perspectives from my teachers and classmates. ICLP is open to people of any background, so I learned alongside recent graduates, Master’s students, PhD candidates, professionals working for their country’s state departments, people taking sabbaticals from their work, and so much more. People come from all over the world to study at ICLP and, as a result, the thought exchanges are incredible.

Furthermore, I learned that Taiwan is home to many different languages. Many of my teachers also spoke Taiwanese at home, which is separate from Mandarin. Taiwan has also strived to be a dual language region so starting from an early age, people learn both Mandarin and English. Differences in language backgrounds are respected (unlike the culture of English superiority in America) and I was even encouraged to share my own experiences with my native language, Cantonese, which is another dialect of Chinese. For my mandatory midterm presentation during my last quarter at ICLP in which all teachers and a majority of ICLP classmates are present, I presented in Mandarin on the similarities and differences between Cantonese and Mandarin.

Language is a powerful tool that connects people. Each language reflects different cultures and the ways different people view the world. By learning each other’s languages, we can meaningfully communicate and better understand each other as well as our world. In doing so, we can learn from others and improve our own ways of life. Thus, by encouraging and undertaking language education, we can all lead more productive and satisfying lives, another main factor of the Milken Family Foundation’s mission.

Final Thoughts

Taiwan is one of the most beautiful places I have ever had the privilege of visiting, as well as one of the places with the most uncertain future. I became fluent in a language I had been trying to learn for over a decade, met lifelong friends, learned about a variety of Taiwanese cultures and customs, visited some of the most beautiful places on Earth, and found a kinder way of living in society. My choice to travel to Taiwan after graduation was based on a variety of factors, all involving education, exploring critical global issues, and creating a more meaningful life, all of which align with the missions of the Milken Institute and Milken Family Foundation. Thank you for this funding, as I would not have been able to experience as much of Taiwan without it. I highly encourage anyone who may have the opportunity to also visit Taiwan and experience its magnificence. 

Works Cited

“How Taiwan’s Election Fits Into the Island’s Past, and Its Future.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 14 Jan. 2024.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Republic of China (Taiwan). “History.” Government Portal of Republic of China, Taiwan, 2024.

Ng, Kelly. “Taiwan Election: Why the Outcome Matters to the World.” BBC News, BBC, 13 Jan. 2024.