Scholar Stories

Scattered Snapshots of Life in Hong Kong

Published 04/21/2023 in Scholar Travel Stipend

Written by Francis Poon | 04/21/2023

Since the blockbuster success of “Crazy Rich Asians” five years ago, there has been a growing appetite in America to better understand the lives and stories of Asian-Americans.

The increased interest in the mainstream is palpable — as I write this, a wild but wholly original movie named “Everything, Everywhere All At Once” just swept the Oscars. A story by and about an Asian-American family won Best Picture. Michelle Yeoh, who portrays a dissatisfied and overwhelmed matriarch and owner of a laundromat business, became the first self-identified Asian to win Best Actress. And don’t even get me started on the real-life, tear-jerking comeback story that is Ke Huy Quan.

But while the focus in America has largely been about Asian-Americans, what is life for Asians in Asia?

With the support of the Milken travel stipend, I visited Hong Kong in the winter of 2022/2023 to further my understanding. With half my face covered by a mask, I made my first visit in over five years. Here are a few scattered snapshots about life 8000 miles away.

The Many Customs of Hong Kong

Once nicknamed “Pearl of the Orient,” Hong Kong has gone from a community of fishing villages to a busy, international metropolis. An estimated 7 million people pack efficiently into every corner of the 400-square mile city. High rises and commercial buildings perch along its mountainous terrain and tower over Victoria Harbor. At night, the skyline is effervescent and glorious.
Given Hong Kong’s geographic location along the China Sea and its history as a former British colony, Hong Kong culture has always been an amalgamation of two distinct customs, from two separate corners of the world. Just consider the typical breakfast — why just have cheong-fun (rice noodle) and jok (congee), when you can also get it with a side of scrambled egg doused in butter, macaroni with ham in soup and a freshly baked bun?
In case it’s not obvious from the aforementioned breakfast, carbs are a big part of the diet. But because Hong Kongers have to navigate a massive system of interconnected crosswalks and labyrinth of alleyways to get around town daily, they are also some of the most active people on Earth — the average resident clocks in 6880 steps a day. (Average Americans, 4774.)

The Many Faces of Hong Kongers

On the topic of interconnectedness, Asians love technology. But while there is still an allure to owning Apple products in Hong Kong, another brand is taking on the iPhone — China’s Xiaomi. It is cheaper, more customizable, and seen as the local favorite. Also in Hong Kong, few businesses take Apple Pay so Xiaomi works with any app-based payment services.
Wealth is apparent. Just consider the number of Hermès stores — there are three in Manhattan. There is a minimum of eight in Hong Kong. While much attention has gone to these “crazy, rich” Asians, not enough has been said about the flip side: a 2020 survey found that one in five Hongkongers live in poverty. When I would go on my early morning walks, I would pass by elders who survive on a few bucks a day by selling old phone books and household knickknacks.
The clock tower in Tsim Sha Tsui is one of the most recognizable and well-frequented landmarks in Hong Kong. But take a different exit at the same MTR station and you’ll end up a couple blocks away, at the Kowloon Mosque and Islamic Centre. It is the largest Muslim place of worship in Hong Kong and a refuge for many Indonesian and Filipino domestic workers, whose labor is the backbone of Hong Kong, but often rendered invisible.

The Many Traces of China

Reminders of Hong Kong’s longstanding relationship with China can be found everywhere, even in live markets, where China and Hong Kong flags hang side by side. On bus stations, signs read: “A country can flourish only when its roots are deep.” There is now an ordinance requiring that Hong Kong public schools raise the Chinese flag every school day and that its students sing China’s national anthem at least once a week.
Hong Kong transportation has always been clean, efficient, and precise. (Imagine a train system that accurately predicts when the next train arrives and informs where the car doors will open on the platform!) Today, there are several new train lines that directly connect Hong Kong to mainland China. On one of those lines, screens display CCTV news of the day. Over my month-long visit, the top story was the burgeoning relationship between Xi Jinping and Vladimir Putin.
New York has the Met. London has the Tate. And now, Hong Kong has M+. Situated in the newly revitalized cultural district of West Kowloon, M+ is Asia’s first global museum of contemporary visual culture and is dedicated to showcasing how infinitely international and forward-thinking China is. In addition to finally experiencing Yayoi Kusama’s infamous Infinity Room, two other exhibits caught my attention: a special collection called “From Revolution to Globalization,” which captures “the cultural dynamism of contemporary China since China’s open-door policy of 1978 and [its] rise to the world stage” to “Beeple: HUMAN ONE” which is an evolving video sculpture showing the first human born inside the metaverse.

The Many Lifestyles of Hong Kong

Whereas many Western nations move towards the legalization of weed, Hong Kong has a firm stance against it. As of February 1, 2023, possession of CBD can result in up to seven years in jail and a 1 million Hong Kong dollar fine. (Those who traffic or manufacture it could end up with a life sentence.) At train stations and on buses, posters remind everyone of the new policy.
Since COVID, the nightlife in Hong Kong has dramatically decreased. Crowds disperse by 9p. In 2022, it’s been estimated that about one third of Hong Kong’s eateries closed. Nowhere is this more obvious than in Lan Kwai Fong. The former buzzing nightlife district is only a shadow of its former self, as many bars and restaurants have shuttered. Throughout the city, many neon signs that have long illuminated Hong Kong storefronts have also slowly been taken down and replaced with electric billboards.
For all the ways Hong Kong is changing, many locals still see it as a great place to retire. The country’s easy and interconnected transportation system, along with a wide range of restaurants in walkable distance, make it an easier place to live than the car-dependent cities of the West.

As you can see, Hong Kong is, pardon the pun, everything, everywhere, all at once! It’s hard to summarize this place. For every point I made, millions more could be said. Hong Kong is changing. I am changing. What will stay relevant in 10 years? What will change? But one thing is clear: as its citizens strive to shape its future, this global port city is multi-faceted, with surprises around every corner. And I look forward to another snapshot in the near future.

The Many Customs of Hong Kong

Francis Poon Hong Kong